The History of the 'Milanese Style' // A milánói stílus története
The Milanese tailoring style has been one of the most relevant styles in Italy. Based on a precise technique and on sober lines, this was the first style that became popular through the country and it was essential in the development of modern menswear.
In the early 1800s Milan was flourishing - trading with other cites or countries, wages had increased, population was changing. New shops, cafes and theaters appeared, people were gathering at academies and organized debates. Piazza del Duomo was the pulsating heart of the city, the place from which all streets started and where people met.
There was a small street with famous cafes and shops selling luxury goods - there was a shop called “Negozio di panni con sartoria” (Fabric and tailoring shop) which imported fabrics from England. Tailors began to design clothes for everyday men and Giuliano Prandoni arrived on the scene. He launched the “Milanese style” and the main principles of this tailor’s style are still followed in today’s designs. The basic principle of this style was very simple: menswear had to be designed on the body of a real man, eliminating impractical folds, bizarre tails and useless decorations, and opting for a sober style that emphasized the shoulders while perfectly balancing the rest of the figure. To reach this style Prandoni studied the human anatomy and changing the patterns focusing on the body and its movements. Highlighting the waistline and hips and placing the armhole in a higher position allowed med to move freely and comfortably. His students continued his work and kept the “Milanese style” alive.
In the 20th century, a new generation of tailors appeared. Many tailors moved from the Southern parts which influenced the local style. Even though many tailoring shops have closed down as Milan transformed into a fashion capital the “Milanese style” continued to be popular throughout the decades.